Ehime Prefecture curves along the western edge of Shikoku, facing the Seto Inland Sea to the north and the Pacific to the south. It contains two of Japan’s twelve original-keep castles, the country’s oldest continuously operating bathhouse, and the world’s most celebrated cycling route. Few prefectures pack this density of landmarks into such a compact space, and the ease of getting between them on the Yosan Line makes Ehime an ideal base for a multi-day Shikoku itinerary.

Matsuyama Castle

Matsuyama Castle sits on the summit of 132-metre Mount Katsuyama at the centre of the city, visible from almost every street below. It is one of Japan’s twelve original-keep castles — meaning the main tower has stood continuously since the Edo period without reconstruction. The castle was completed in 1628 after a long construction process under Lord Kato Yoshiakira and remains in fine structural condition today.

Reaching the Summit

Two options carry visitors from the base station to the castle grounds: a conventional enclosed ropeway (3 minutes, ¥270 one way) and an open-air gondola chairlift (6 minutes, slower and exposed to the elements). On a clear day the chairlift offers unobstructed views over the city rooftops and the shimmering surface of the Seto Inland Sea. In windy or rainy weather the enclosed ropeway is the sensible choice.

Inside the Castle

Admission to the main keep costs ¥520. The interior displays armour, weaponry, and historical documents relating to the Matsuyama domain. The top floor provides sweeping panoramas across the Dogo plain, the coastline, and on clear days the silhouettes of the islands of the Inland Sea. The castle grounds cover a broad hilltop and include multiple secondary towers, gates, and connecting corridors — exploring the full circuit takes 45 minutes to an hour.

The grounds are one of Matsuyama’s best cherry blossom spots, with peak bloom typically falling in late March. A Ninja Experience event runs on selected weekends throughout the year, with costumed guides performing demonstrations in the grounds.

Access: Iyotetsu tram from Matsuyama Station to Kencho-mae stop, then ropeway or gondola to the summit. Total journey approximately 20 minutes from the station. Combined tram and ropeway fare approximately ¥700.

Dogo Onsen Honkan

Dogo Onsen is Japan’s oldest continuously operating public bathhouse, with a history stretching back more than 3,000 years according to local records. The building standing today dates from 1894, a Meiji-era wooden structure of three overlapping rooflines, latticed windows, and a distinctive white heron weather vane at its peak. It is widely believed to have served as the visual inspiration for the bathhouse in Hayao Miyazaki’s animated film Spirited Away, though Studio Ghibli has never officially confirmed this claim.

Bathing Options

The bathhouse is undergoing phased restoration work; check the official dogo.jp website before visiting for the current status of individual baths. When fully operational, the main tier is Kami-no-Yu on the first floor — the standard communal bath available for ¥460 — and Tama-no-Yu on the second floor, which offers private tatami rooms, yukata, and a formal tea service for ¥1,560 per person. Towel and yukata rental is available at the entrance for guests who did not bring their own.

The Surrounding Arcade

The covered shopping arcade leading from the tram terminus to the bathhouse is lined with souvenir shops specialising in Tobe-yaki pottery, Ehime citrus confectionery, and sake bars. The evening atmosphere, with visitors strolling in yukata between the lantern-lit shopfronts, is one of the most pleasant in Shikoku. Several sake bars along the arcade serve locally brewed Saijo sake by the cup.

Access: Iyotetsu tram from Matsuyama Station to Dogo Onsen terminus. Journey 20 minutes, ¥180 one way.

Shimanami Kaido

The Nishiseto Expressway, better known as the Shimanami Kaido, is a 70-kilometre road and cycling route connecting Imabari in Ehime to Onomichi in Hiroshima Prefecture. It crosses six islands and five suspension bridges over the Seto Inland Sea and is widely regarded as the world’s most scenic cycling route. Dedicated cycling lanes run the full length, separated from vehicle traffic on the bridge sections. The total elevation gain is modest; the steepest sections are the helical ramps ascending to each bridge deck, at roughly 6 percent gradient.

Cycling the Full Route

The complete route from Imabari to Onomichi takes 6 to 8 hours at a comfortable pace. Rental bicycles are available at the GIANT store adjacent to Imabari Station — road bikes from ¥3,000 per day, electric-assist models from ¥2,500. Cycle terminals at each island allow you to leave the bicycle at either end of the route for a ¥1,100 surcharge. A luggage forwarding service between the Imabari and Onomichi terminals costs ¥1,500 per bag, allowing you to cycle with only a daypack.

Key Island Stops

Omishima, the largest cultural landmark on the route, is home to Oyamazumi Jinja — one of Japan’s oldest shrines, dedicated to mountain and sea deities. The shrine’s treasure house contains 80 percent of all National Treasures designated as armour and weapons in Japan, donated over centuries by warriors who survived famous battles. Entry ¥1,000.

Ikuchijima’s main sight is Kosan-ji, a flamboyant temple complex built in the 1950s by a wealthy industrialist in memory of his mother. Its buildings are gilded replicas of famous structures from Nikko and Nara, covered in gold leaf and intricate carvings. Entry ¥1,400.

Access: JR Yosan Line from Matsuyama Station to Imabari, 40 minutes, ¥840.

Ozu: The Little Kyoto of Shikoku

The castle town of Ozu sits on the Hiji River in central Ehime, about 50 minutes from Matsuyama by train. Its compact historic core — an original-keep castle, a dramatic riverfront villa, and a preserved merchant townscape — earns it the informal title of “Little Kyoto of Shikoku.”

Ozu Castle and Garyu Sanso

Ozu Castle was rebuilt in 2004 using timber-frame construction based on the original Edo-period plans. Though technically a reconstruction, the result is indistinguishable in appearance from a genuinely surviving castle; entry costs ¥500. Immediately below the castle, perched on a cliff above the river bend, stands Garyu Sanso — a Meiji-era villa built by a retired merchant as a retreat for intellectual gatherings. The architecture is deliberately eccentric, combining traditional Japanese forms with personal inventions. Entry ¥1,000.

Between June and September, ukai (cormorant fishing) is performed on the Hiji River on summer evenings, with fishing boats lit by hanging torches. Spectator boats can be booked in advance through the Ozu City tourism office.

Access: JR Yosan Line from Matsuyama Station to Iyo-Ozu, 50 minutes, ¥970.

Uwajima Castle and the Southern Coast

Uwajima, at the southern end of the Yosan Line, contains one of the most perfectly preserved original-keep castles in Japan. The keep at Uwajima is compact — three stories on a modest hilltop — but its condition is excellent and its setting, overlooking the fishing port and forested hills, is peaceful. Entry ¥200, making it among the cheapest castle admissions in the country.

Uwajima is also home to Taga Shrine, which maintains a fertility museum in its precincts. The museum’s collection is frank and extensive in its celebration of human reproduction, and the shrine draws curious visitors from across Japan. Whether taken as cultural curiosity or genuine religious site, it is memorable.

The southern Ehime coast around Uwajima is known for sea bream (tai) aquaculture, and the local taimeshi — sea bream rice in the Uwa-style, with a whole fish slow-cooked over rice in a clay pot — is outstanding.

Access: JR Yosan Line from Matsuyama Station to Uwajima, 1 hour 40 minutes, ¥2,200.