Fukushima Prefecture — the largest in Tohoku — is slowly reclaiming its place as one of Japan’s great travel destinations. The areas described in this guide (Aizu-Wakamatsu, Higashiyama, and the Bandai-Asahi plateau) are geographically and culturally remote from the 2011 coastal zone and have been open to tourism throughout. The prefecture rewards independent travellers seeking samurai history, excellent onsen, and spectacular mountain scenery without crowds.

Best Areas to Stay

Aizu-Wakamatsu — Samurai Castle Town

The most complete surviving castle-town atmosphere in Tohoku. Tsurugajo Castle, the Byakkotai (White Tiger Brigade) memorial, and Oyakuen medicinal garden are the highlights. Several traditional ryokan in the city.

Higashiyama Onsen

A traditional hot spring resort village 4 km east of Aizu-Wakamatsu centre — often described as one of the most classically “Tohoku” onsen atmospheres in Japan. Riverside ryokan, communal footbaths, and willow trees lining the narrow streets.

Urabandai & Bandai Plateau

High volcanic plateau above Lake Inawashiro — the fourth-largest lake in Japan — with hiking trails past emerald crater lakes (Goshikinuma, Five Colour Lakes). Guesthouses and small ryokan scattered through the forest.

Higashiyama Onsen Ryokan

Mukaitaki ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐

The grandest ryokan in Higashiyama — a massive wooden building dating to the Taisho era, with rambling corridors, traditional garden, and multiple bath types using the local spring water. Aizu lacquerware and Aizu cotton used throughout. ¥28,000–¥55,000/pp including meals.

Harataki ⭐⭐⭐⭐

A mid-size ryokan with a beautiful rotenburo overlooking the Yunokami River gorge. Smaller and quieter than Mukaitaki, with a more personal service feel. Local sake from the Aizu region is a speciality at dinner. ¥20,000–¥35,000/pp.

Oyado Matsuya

A more affordable, simpler ryokan in Higashiyama — shared baths, futon bedding, and unpretentious Tohoku home cooking. Family-run, with an owner who speaks some English. ¥12,000–¥18,000/pp.

Aizu-Wakamatsu City Hotels

Aizu Astoria Hotel

The largest and most modern hotel in Aizu-Wakamatsu — convention-style but comfortable. Indoor pool and hot spring bath. Close to Aizu Busan cultural complex and Tsurugajo. ¥12,000–¥20,000/night.

Mominoki Inn

A small guesthouse near the city centre with a mix of Japanese and Western rooms. The owner is a passionate local historian who provides informal talks on the Boshin War and Byakkotai story. ¥8,000–¥12,000/night.

Bandai & Lake Inawashiro Lodges

Bandai Kogen Hotel

A Western-style mountain resort hotel in the Urabandai highlands — summer hiking and cycling, autumn foliage, and winter ski access to Alts Bandai. Restaurant focuses on Fukushima mountain vegetables and locally farmed produce. ¥15,000–¥28,000/night.

Goshikinuma Youth Hostel

For those prioritising hiking access over comfort — this hostel sits at the trailhead for the famous Goshikinuma (Five Colour Lakes) crater lake walk. Shared dorms and simple meals. ¥4,000–¥7,000/night.

Practical Tips

  • Access to Aizu-Wakamatsu: From Tokyo, take the Shinkansen to Koriyama (50 min) then the Banetsu West Line to Aizu-Wakamatsu (1h20min). The Aizukogen Romantic Train (autumn only) runs through spectacular foliage.
  • Fukushima visitor context: The 2011 disaster affected the Pacific coastal area, which is distant from the Aizu and Bandai regions covered here. Fukushima Prefecture as a whole has been safe for tourism and produces excellent rice, fruit, and sake — support local producers.
  • Aizu sake: The Aizu basin’s cold mountain water and rice-growing conditions produce some of Tohoku’s finest sake. Ask your ryokan to serve local Aizu brands. Suehiro, Kitakata, and Sharaku are excellent labels.
  • Autumn peak: Mid-October to early November on the Bandai plateau and around Lake Inawashiro is Fukushima’s most dramatic season — crimson maple forests reflected in the volcanic lakes. Book at least 2–3 months ahead for ryokan during this period.