Kagawa Prefecture is known throughout Japan by a single culinary identity: it is the udon prefecture. The local Sanuki udon style has produced not only the most concentrated udon shop culture in the country but an entire tourism practice — the “udon pilgrimage” — in which visitors devote a full day to eating five or more bowls at successive shops across the prefecture. But Kagawa’s food culture extends well beyond noodles. The Seto Inland Sea provides exceptional seafood, Shodoshima Island produces Japan’s finest domestic olive oil, and the prefecture has its own distinctive way with grilled chicken that is worth seeking out on any itinerary.

Sanuki Udon — Understanding the Style and System

Sanuki udon is distinct from the udon served elsewhere in Japan by its noodle geometry: thicker and flatter than other regional styles, with a slightly square-cut cross-section that creates a pronounced chew and a firm, elastic bite. The dashi broth used in Kagawa is typically lighter than the dark soy-heavy broths of the Kanto region — a clear golden stock made from iriko (dried sardine) or kombu, which lets the noodle’s texture and flavour occupy the centre of attention rather than the broth.

Most Sanuki udon shops operate on a self-service (serufu) model that is straightforward once understood. On entering, customers pick up a tray and move along a counter where noodles are being portioned. Indicate how many portions (usually one for a regular serving), specify the preparation style — kake (hot noodles in broth), zaru (cold noodles drained and served with dipping broth), kamaage (hot noodles fresh from the cooking pot, served with thin dipping broth), or bukkake (cold noodles with concentrated tsuyu poured over) — then add toppings from the counter selection. Typical toppings: chikuwa (fish cake tubes), kakiage (small vegetable fritters), hanpen (fish cake), raw or soft-boiled egg. Pour your own broth from the large metal drums at the end of the counter, pay at the till, and find a seat.

Portions are modest by design. A single serving costs ¥350 to ¥600 at most shops, and the udon pilgrimage practice of eating five or more bowls in a single morning depends on those small portions. If you are attempting the pilgrimage, eat nothing before starting and plan to visit shops between 7am and noon — most shops exhaust their noodles and close by 2pm.

Yamada-ya in Takamatsu is the most accessible quality option for visitors staying in the city — located in the central shopping district, consistent in execution, and open for longer hours than rural shops. For the authentic rural farmhouse experience that defines the udon pilgrimage ideal, Yamauchiudon in Ayagawa-cho is the benchmark: a farmhouse setting with outdoor seating under a corrugated awning, simple benches, and noodles that sell out early. Arrive before 9am to be safe. In Marugame, Kanakobeudon maintains a traditional long-queue format; serious udon visitors arrive before 8am.

For those who want a guided experience, udon taxi tours depart from Takamatsu and cover five to six shops in a single morning, with the driver acting as guide. Prices run ¥8,000 to ¥12,000 per car (not per person), making this cost-effective for small groups.

Olive Oil Cuisine and Shodoshima Products

Shodoshima Island, a short ferry ride from Takamatsu, produces the majority of Japan’s domestic olive crop. The mild Mediterranean-style climate of the Seto Inland Sea island — low rainfall, long sun hours, moderate winters — proved unexpectedly suited to the olive trees introduced in the early twentieth century, and the island now markets an entire food culture built around the crop.

Olive-related products available on Shodoshima and in Takamatsu shops carrying island designations include olive oil soft cream (a smooth, lightly grassy gelato-style cone), olive ramen (noodles dressed with olive oil rather than the usual lard-heavy tare), olive pork (pigs fed on olive pulp from the pressing process, producing delicately flavoured meat), and olive-fed sea bream — fish grown in inland sea pens where the feed includes olive byproduct, resulting in flesh with a mild, clean flavour.

The Shodoshima ferry terminal on the island has a dedicated olive products shop. In Takamatsu, look for products labelled Shodoshima Olive or carrying the Setouchi designation at the Clement Plaza department store near the station.

Access to Shodoshima: Regular ferry from Takamatsu Port (65 minutes, ¥720). High-speed ferry also available (35 minutes, ¥1,480).

Seto Inland Sea Seafood

The inland sea that separates Shikoku from Honshu is shallow, nutrient-rich, and heavily trafficked by tidal currents, producing seafood of consistent high quality. The main species available in Kagawa’s fish markets and restaurants include madai (red sea bream), suzuki (sea bass), anago (conger eel), taco (octopus), and shijimi (freshwater clams) from the river mouths.

Madai from the Seto Inland Sea is the prestige ingredient: served as sashimi at upmarket restaurants, grilled whole at casual fish restaurants near the harbour, or incorporated into tai-meshi (sea bream rice) — a whole fish steamed over a pot of lightly seasoned rice so the flesh fat and juices permeate every grain. Anago (conger eel) from these waters is distinct from the freshwater unagi eel more commonly seen on Japanese menus, with a lighter, more delicate flavour well suited to tempura preparation.

For fresh seafood ingredients, Takamatsu’s Hyogo-machi covered arcade and the underground food hall at Marché Mugi department store are the best in-city options. The wholesale market area near the port handles the morning supply and feeds the city’s restaurants.

Honetsuki Dori — Bone-In Grilled Chicken

Honetsuki dori is Kagawa’s distinctive chicken preparation: an entire chicken leg (including the thigh, drumstick, and joint), left bone-in, marinated in a soy and garlic mixture, and grilled over bincho charcoal at high heat until the skin crisps while the meat inside remains juicy. The result is richer, more deeply charred, and more satisfying than standard yakitori skewers, and the bone-in cooking produces a flavour that boned-out preparations cannot replicate.

Restaurants specialising in honetsuki dori are concentrated in the Ichibancho and Kawaramachi entertainment districts of Takamatsu, open primarily for dinner. A single portion — one whole leg — runs ¥800 to ¥1,200 and is typically served with shredded cabbage and a wedge of lemon. Order one per person as a main dish alongside rice, miso soup, and pickles for a complete meal, or as part of a larger izakaya spread.

Naoshima and Shodoshima — Eating on the Islands

Visitors spending a full day on Naoshima for the art museums should plan food independently. The Benesse House Terrace restaurant and the cafe at the Art House Project provide meals and snacks, but both can be crowded during peak season and the menu is limited. Bringing lunch from a Takamatsu konbini or the department store food hall is a practical and common approach for budget-conscious visitors. Cafes and a small general store operate in Honmura village near the Art House Project.

On Shodoshima, the fishing harbour town of Tonosho has a cluster of restaurants serving island-produced seafood, somen noodles (a Shodoshima specialty — thin white noodles dried in the sea breeze and eaten cold with dipping broth), and olive-based dishes.

What to Budget

Udon breakfast: ¥350 to ¥500 per bowl. Udon taxi tour: ¥8,000 to ¥12,000 per car, covering five to six shops. Casual lunch at a soba or teishoku restaurant: ¥800 to ¥1,200. Dinner at a honetsuki dori specialist or seafood izakaya: ¥2,500 to ¥4,000 with drinks. Upmarket tai-meshi or kaiseki dinner: ¥6,000 and above per person. Kagawa’s food culture rewards budget travel — the best udon in Japan costs the same as a convenience store sandwich.