Kanagawa contains more ecological variety than any other prefecture near Tokyo. Within 90 minutes of Shinjuku you can stand inside an active volcanic crater, hike a mountain ridge used by samurai armies, surf a Pacific beach, or kayak among sea caves on a wild volcanic cape. The prefecture is almost entirely overlooked by nature travellers who default to the Japanese Alps — a significant mistake.
Hakone: Volcanic Landscape and Mountain Drama
Owakudani — Japan’s Most Accessible Active Volcano
Owakudani (大涌谷, “Great Boiling Valley”) is a volcanic caldera created by the eruption of Mt. Kamiyama 3,000 years ago. The scale is unsettling even now: sulphur steam vents hiss from pale yellow and grey crags across a wide crater floor, the smell of hydrogen sulphide drifts across the viewing platform, and the landscape looks nothing like the rest of Japan.
The celebrated kuro-tamago (黒玉子, black eggs) are boiled in the sulphur-rich hot spring pools, which turns the shells permanently black. Five eggs cost ¥600 from the Owakudani cooking station at the crater rim. The tradition dates back to the Edo period and the legend that each egg adds seven years to your life.
Practical notes: Owakudani is reached by the Hakone Ropeway (included in the Hakone Freepass). On days of elevated volcanic activity, the crater-side path is closed and visitors must stay on the main observation platform. Check the Hakone Ropeway website before visiting. The best Mt. Fuji visibility is December through February on clear mornings before 10:00.
Lake Ashi (Ashinoko) and Mt. Kamiyama
Lake Ashi (芦ノ湖) fills the outer caldera of the same volcanic system. The lake’s extraordinary clarity reflects Mt. Fuji on still mornings — the classic image of the Hakone Jinja torii gate rising from the mirror-calm water against a snow-capped cone is real and achievable at 7:00–8:00 from Moto-Hakone pier.
The highest accessible peak in Hakone is Mt. Komagatake (1,327m), reached by the Komagatake Ropeway from Hakone-en on the lake’s eastern shore. The summit offers the most dramatic Fuji view in the entire Hakone area — Fuji appears across the lake with the volcanic crater in the foreground. The ropeway ride takes 7 minutes. Return fare ¥1,800 (not covered by basic Hakone Freepass, but included in premium versions).
Sengokuhara Pampas Grass Fields — Autumn Spectacle
Every year from late September through November, the broad highland plateau of Sengokuhara (仙石原) turns gold as the pampas grass (susuki, 薄) reaches its peak. The main field — 400m long, flanked by mountains — is one of the most beautiful autumn landscapes in Japan and sees surprisingly few international tourists given its accessibility (direct bus from Hakone-Yumoto, 40 min).
Timing matters: Peak colour is usually the second or third week of October. The stalks go to seed and turn white by early November, which has its own beauty. At sunset, the golden light catches the pampas in a way that justifies the trip from Tokyo alone.
Hot Spring Rivers and Volcanic Geology
The Hayakawa river that runs through Hakone-Yumoto carries mineralised water from the volcanic uplands, and much of what feels like a “natural” river walk is in fact a thermal environment. The Tonosawa area (湯河原方向), reached by the Hakone Tozan Railway, has riverside footpaths where you can see natural hot spring seeps along the riverbank.
Kamakura: Mountain Trails Through Temple Country
Daibutsu Hiking Trail (大仏ハイキングコース)
This is the best hike in eastern Japan that nobody takes. The 3km ridge trail begins at Jochiji temple (near Kita-Kamakura Station, served by JR Yokosuka line) and follows a forested ridge through mountain cedar, bamboo groves, and the occasional moss-covered stone Buddha before descending into the garden behind the Great Buddha at Kotoku-in.
What makes it special: The contrast between 60–90 minutes of entirely silent forest trail — often just you and birdsong — and the sudden appearance of the 13-metre bronze figure below you as you descend the final path is extraordinary. Almost nobody uses this entrance to the Great Buddha. You arrive at the statue from above and behind, which most visitors never see.
- Difficulty: Easy. Minimal elevation change. Ordinary walking shoes acceptable.
- Duration: 60–90 minutes
- Start: Kita-Kamakura Station → walk 5 min to Jochiji temple
- Finish: Kotoku-in (Great Buddha). Admission ¥300.
Tenen Trail (天園ハイキングコース)
The 6km Tenen ridge trail is Kamakura’s most rewarding serious hike. Starting from Zuisen-ji temple (east Kamakura, 20 min walk from Kamakura Station), the trail climbs to a ridge that forms the eastern wall of the Kamakura valley system. From the highest point — a rocky outcrop above Nagoe — on a clear day you see Pacific Ocean blue to the south and Mt. Fuji white to the west simultaneously. Few hiking spots near Tokyo offer this combination.
The trail ends at Zuigangen-ji on the Zushi side, with an option to detour to the atmospheric Ten-en cave near the ridge, which contains carved Yagura tomb niches from the Kamakura period. Allow 3–4 hours including time at the viewpoints.
- Difficulty: Moderate. Some rocky scrambling near the summit.
- Best season: Autumn (October–November) for foliage; winter (December–February) for Fuji visibility.
Kiritoshi Mountain Passes
The Kiritoshi (切通し) are Kamakura’s secret infrastructure. Medieval military commanders had the valley’s surrounding mountains notched with narrow passes — some barely wide enough for one horse — to control access to the capital. Walking them today is to use the exact same path that samurai armies used in the 13th century.
The most dramatic are:
- Kewaizaka no Kiritoshi (化粧坂切通し): The steepest pass, near Kenchoji temple. The stone walls close to within arm’s width; the grade is extreme. Used by the Nitta army during the 1333 siege of Kamakura.
- Nagoshi-no-Kiritoshi (名越切通し): The southern pass toward Zushi, through deep rock cuts. Large Yagura cave tombs line the cliff above the path immediately after entering.
Both passes connect to the main temple districts and can be incorporated into a half-day walking circuit with no backtracking.
Tanzawa Mountains (丹沢山地) — Kanagawa’s Wild Interior
The Tanzawa-Oyama Quasi-National Park occupies the western inland portion of Kanagawa and contains the most serious hiking terrain in the greater Tokyo region. The mountains are genuinely wild — deer and wild boar populations are high, black bear (tsukinowaguma) are present, and the trails above 1,000 metres feel remote despite being 90 minutes from Tokyo.
Oyama (大山) — The Accessible Peak
Mt. Oyama (1,252m) is the most visited mountain in Kanagawa, with the easiest access: a funicular railway (cable car) from Isehara climbs to the midpoint shrine, from which a 1-hour trail continues to the summit. The Afuri Shrine on the lower station level is ancient and beautifully positioned.
What makes Oyama special:
- The summit shrine (Oyama Afuri Jinja, upper level) has been a pilgrimage destination since the 8th century — the straw sandals offered to the deity are an unusual tradition
- Autumn foliage (early to mid-November) is among the finest in Kanagawa — the cable car ride through the coloured hillside is spectacular
- On clear winter days the summit offers views of Mt. Fuji directly across the Sagami Plain
Access: Odakyu line to Isehara Station, then bus to Oyama cable car (30 min, ¥360). Cable car: ¥1,270 return. Total from Shinjuku: about 75 minutes.
Nakagawa Gorge — Hidden Gem
Deep in the Tanzawa mountains, the Nakagawa gorge (中川温泉) contains a small hot spring settlement accessible only by narrow mountain road. The riverside onsen at Buko-no-Yu (ブコーの湯) is the most natural-feeling thermal bath within 2 hours of Tokyo — a wooden building perched over the river with outdoor pools fed by actual volcanic water. Day use ¥700. The approach hike along the Nakagawa river from Yajiro bus stop (50 min walk) passes through one of the most atmospheric forested gorges in the prefecture.
Shonan Coast — Japan’s Original Surf Country
The 30km Pacific coastline from Chigasaki to Odawara is called Shonan (湘南), and it has served as Japan’s primary beach and surf culture zone since the 1960s. The culture here is genuinely different from the rest of the Tokyo region — more relaxed, outdoor-focused, with a distinct identity.
Surfing
Shonan is the birthplace of Japanese surf culture. The first Japanese surfers in the 1960s learned at Chigasaki and Kugenuma beaches, and the area still supports a thriving surf community. The waves are generally small (1–2m on good days), warm in summer, and beginner-friendly. Several surf schools operate on Kugenuma beach offering 2-hour lessons for ¥5,000–8,000 including board rental.
Best surf spots by experience level:
- Beginner: Kugenuma (茅ヶ崎), Chigasaki beach
- Intermediate: Garan-dake point, Kamakura
- Advanced: Koajiro Bay, Miura Peninsula (powerful shore break)
Cycling the Shonan Coast Road
Route 134 (国道134号) runs directly along the coast from Fujisawa to Odawara, with sea on one side and mountains on the other for much of its length. Cycling this road — particularly the central section between Chigasaki and Odawara — is a Shonan rite of passage. Rental bikes are available at Katase-Enoshima Station (¥800–1,500/day). On clear days the entire route has continuous views of Mt. Fuji across the water.
Enoshima Tidal Flats
At low tide, the volcanic rock platform that extends from Enoshima island’s southern shore is exposed, revealing extraordinary tidal pools full of sea urchin, starfish, small octopus, and brilliantly coloured anemones. This is one of the best accessible rock-pooling locations near Tokyo and is almost completely unknown to tourists.
Practical notes: Check the tide table for Enoshima before visiting (search “江ノ島 潮位” for current predictions). The best pools are revealed 1–2 hours after low tide on the island’s southeastern tip. Wear shoes that can get wet.
Kamakura’s Beaches
Yuigahama (由比ヶ浜) and Zaimokuza (材木座) are Kamakura’s town beaches, flanked by temple-covered hills and facing directly toward Mt. Fuji across the bay. Both are excellent family beaches in July–August (lifeguarded, beach huts). Kataase beach on the Enoshima side is smaller and less crowded.
Miura Peninsula — Wild Cape and Sea Caves
Jogashima Island
Jogashima (城ヶ島) is Kanagawa’s wild card: a small island at the Miura Peninsula’s southern tip accessible by bridge, with a volcanic rock coastline utterly unlike anything on the gentler Shonan coast. The sea here is powerful — the Pacific swells arrive unobstructed, carving arches, stacks, and sea caves from the dark volcanic rock.
A 30-minute perimeter walking trail loops the island, passing the old lighthouse (Jogashima Lighthouse, built 1870), rock arches accessible at low tide, and sea caves where the water channels between enormous boulders. The Cape Jogashima viewpoint on the southern tip looks south to nothing but open Pacific — on clear winter days, the Izu Islands are visible. In the opposite direction, Mt. Fuji rises above the peninsula.
The island’s single fishing village is genuinely quiet — a handful of restaurants serving Misaki-port tuna and the local Misaki maguro meshi (tuna rice bowl). Access: Keikyu line to Misakiguchi Station, then bus to Jogashima (30 min, ¥310).
Tsukuihama Beach — Best Sunsets in Kanagawa
On the inner (Tokyo Bay) side of the Miura Peninsula, Tsukuihama is a small natural beach known locally for having the best sunset views in the prefecture. The westward-facing bay frames Mt. Fuji perfectly at sunset in winter. Access: JR Yokosuka line to Higashi-Zushi, then bus.
Marine Activities in Sagami Bay
Scuba Diving
The Miura Peninsula coast has Kanagawa’s best diving. Tsuboiso rock off the Misaki coast has good visibility (10–15m average, 20m+ in winter) with varied reef life including moray eel, nudibranchs, and seasonal passage species. Hayama Marina on Sagami Bay offers boat dives with local operators and is a good entry point for non-local divers (English-speaking guides available at some operators).
Dolphin Watching
From Enoshima, seasonal dolphin watching boat tours (July–September) run out into Sagami Bay in search of common dolphins and, occasionally, bottlenose dolphins that follow the Kuroshio current northward. Tour operators near Katase-Enoshima pier run 2-hour trips for approximately ¥4,500–6,000.
Seasonal Nature Calendar
| Month | Best Nature Experience |
|---|---|
| Late March–April | Cherry blossom along Kamakura trails; Tsurugaoka Hachimangu avenue |
| June | Hydrangea on Hakone Tozan Railway; rainy season makes forests vivid |
| Late April–December | Shirasu fishing season; best for Shonan coast seafood and beaches |
| July–August | Surfing, beach season; dolphin watching from Enoshima |
| October | Sengokuhara pampas grass peak; early Tanzawa foliage |
| November | Oyama and Tanzawa autumn colours; Mt. Fuji views sharpen |
| December–February | Clearest Fuji views from Hakone and Jogashima; kuro-tamago steam at its most dramatic |
Getting to nature: All the above destinations are accessible without a car using JR lines, Odakyu, Keikyu, and local buses. The Hakone Freepass and Kamakura-Enoshima Pass represent the best value for day-trip nature exploration.