Setsubun, held around 3 February, marks the eve of spring in the old lunar calendar and is celebrated across Japan with mame-maki, the throwing of roasted soybeans to drive out bad fortune, shouting ‘oni wa soto, fuku wa uchi’ — demons out, luck in. Kyoto keeps the day with particular richness: its major shrines and temples host their own ceremonies, from costumed oni demons chased away with beans at Yoshida and Rozanji, to bean-throwing led by geiko and maiko at Yasaka Shrine, to fire rituals and huge crowds scrambling for thrown packets of beans and prizes. It is one of the liveliest times to be in the city in winter.
🗓️ At a Glance
| Location | Kyoto shrines & temples |
| Hours | Around 2–3 February, daytime and evening |
| Admission | Mostly free |
| Time needed | A few hours |
| Best time | 2–3 February; check each shrine’s programme |
What to Expect
- Bean-throwing (mame-maki) to drive out bad luck.
- Costumed oni demons chased away at Yoshida and Rozanji.
- Bean-throwing led by geiko and maiko at Yasaka Shrine.
- Fire rituals and crowds scrambling for lucky beans.
Combine Your Visit
- Combine with Yasaka Shrine and Gion.
- Pair with a warming bowl of nishin soba .
- Read our Kyoto overview .
Getting There
- Varies by shrine: Yoshida, Rozanji, Yasaka and Heian all hold major events.
- By bus and on foot: several key shrines are in and around Higashiyama.
Tips
Pick one or two shrines and check their individual Setsubun programmes in advance, as the timings of the demon dances, bean-throwing and geiko appearances all differ. Yoshida Shrine has the biggest atmosphere and stalls, Yasaka draws crowds for the geiko; go early for a good position, hold onto small children in the scrums for thrown beans, and dress warmly for the February cold.
