Japan’s most celebrated honeymoon destinations — Kyoto, Hakone, Nikko — are well-documented. Saitama, which begins 30 minutes from central Tokyo by train, is not. That is precisely what makes it worth considering. Here you will find a Shinto shrine dedicated specifically to the bonds of love, an evening historic district that empties of day-trippers at dusk, a gorge where flat wooden boats drift silently through ancient rock formations, and a whisky distillery making some of the finest drams in the world. The crowd problem that afflicts so much of Japanese honeymoon tourism is largely absent. The atmosphere is intact.
Kawagoe Hikawa Shrine — Japan’s Love Shrine
Kawagoe Hikawa Shrine is dedicated to five deities from the creation mythology of Japan, three of whom are couples, which has made it a powerful destination for those seeking blessings for love and marriage. The shrine’s association with en-musubi — the tying of bonds between people — is ancient, but the experience of visiting has intensified in recent years as word has spread among both Japanese couples and international visitors.
The Shrine Experience
The approach follows a zelkova-lined path that is beautiful in every season. Morning light filters through the canopy at a low angle in spring and autumn, and the ground beneath the trees is clean and moss-edged. The main shrine hall dates from 1650, with a distinctive painted ceiling visible when the inner doors are open.
The ema wishing tablets at Hikawa Shrine are designed as interlocked circles suggesting a marital bond. Couples write their wishes on the tablets and hang them alongside hundreds of others on the designated racks. The ritual is unhurried and private enough even when other visitors are present.
In summer, the shrine hosts a wind chime festival in which hundreds of glass wind chimes are hung along the approach and around the outer structures of the shrine. The sound on a warm evening, with the chimes moving in the slightest breeze, is one of those atmospheric experiences that exceeds what any photograph can convey. Arriving in the early morning — before 09:00 on weekdays — gives couples near-solitude in one of Japan’s most genuinely romantic sacred sites.
Kurazukuri at Twilight
Kawagoe’s clay-walled merchant district receives most of its visitors between 10:00 and 16:00, when tour groups and day-trippers from Tokyo move through in volume. After 17:00, the atmosphere changes entirely.
The Evening Experience
The amber streetlights installed along the main Kurazukuri street are designed to complement the dark grey of the traditional kura walls. The texture of the clay, the weight of the black ceramic roof tiles, and the patina of old timber shutters read differently in low evening light than they do under afternoon sun. Side alleys that seem ordinary during the day reveal small izakayas with paper lanterns, craft shops closing for the evening with their wooden shutters being drawn, and the occasional figure moving between buildings in a way that makes the district feel genuinely inhabited rather than staged for visitors.
Several small restaurants and bars occupy converted merchant buildings in the streets west of the main Kurazukuri strip. These tend toward local sake, regional cuisine, and a slightly slower pace than the tourist-facing shops on the main street. Kawagoe sake, produced from locally grown rice, is available by the glass at several establishments.
Dinner in Kawagoe
The town’s restaurant scene has deepened in recent years. Seasonal menus using regional ingredients — Kawagoe sweet potato, locally grown tea, river fish — appear in the converted Taisho-era buildings around the old town. Reservations are advisable on weekend evenings.
Nagatoro Gorge Boat Ride for Two
The Arakawa River gorge at Nagatoro is a place of unusual quiet considering how close it sits to Tokyo. The traditional punt boats — flat-bottomed wooden vessels steered from a standing position by watermen using long poles — move through the gorge at a pace that allows the surroundings to become the full focus of attention.
Why It Works for Couples
The combination of physical closeness on a narrow bench, the sound of the river, the high rock walls, and the occasional controlled push through a small rapid creates an atmosphere that is difficult to replicate elsewhere. The waterman’s expertise becomes a kind of performance — each pole placement precise, each course correction almost invisible. The ride takes approximately 60 minutes and covers around three kilometres of the gorge. Fare is ¥2,200 per person.
Autumn is the peak season for the gorge, when maple and zelkova foliage turns the canyon walls red and orange, and the reflection in the water below doubles the visual impact. But the gorge is worth visiting in any season — spring brings new growth and waterfalls fed by snowmelt from the mountains above.
After the boat ride, the riverside path near Nagatoro Station has several small cafes where couples can sit overlooking the water. The area is quieter than the upstream departure point and often completely uncrowded on weekday afternoons.
Chichibu Whisky Tasting
Chichibu Distillery, founded by master distiller Ichiro Akuto in 2008, has become one of the world’s most respected small whisky operations. Its Ichiro’s Malt range is collected internationally, and the distillery itself has something of a cult following among whisky enthusiasts who seek it out specifically.
The Distillery Tour as a Couples Experience
The distillery tour (¥5,000 and up per person, advance booking required) is structured as an intimate guided experience through the small production floor — wooden washbacks, small copper pot stills, hand-filled casks — followed by a seated tasting with guidance through several expressions. Groups are deliberately small. The distillery’s scale means that the guide is often also a working part of the production team.
For couples who are interested in whisky but not ready to commit to a full distillery tour, a more relaxed alternative exists in Chichibu city itself. Several bars and restaurants in the city centre stock Ichiro’s Malt expressions by the glass, at prices considerably below what the same pours would cost in Tokyo. An evening in a quiet Chichibu whisky bar after a day in the mountains or on the river is a natural honeymoon activity that most Japan itineraries entirely miss.
Hitsujiyama at Dawn — Pink Flower Horizon
Hitsujiyama Park outside Chichibu city hosts Japan’s most celebrated moss phlox (shibazakura) display during late April and early May. The hillside is planted with roughly 400,000 plants that bloom simultaneously in dense mats of pink, white, and lavender across the contours of the ground. Seen from the upper viewing slope early in the morning, with mist still in the valley below and the Chichibu mountains beyond, it is one of the most beautiful spring landscapes in eastern Japan.
The Romantic Case for Arriving Early
Festival opening time is typically 08:00. Arriving at 07:30 — while the gates are being prepared — allows couples to take position on the upper viewing slope before the crowds arrive. The light in early morning is warmer and more directional than the flat midday conditions. The flowers, heavy with dew in the early hours, have a different texture and luminescence.
Festival entry costs ¥300 on weekdays and ¥500 on weekends during the bloom period. Shuttle buses run from Seibu-Chichibu Station. The walk from the station takes approximately 20 minutes and passes through a residential section of Chichibu city.
Romantic Accommodation
Chichibu Mountain Guesthouses
Several ryokan and small guesthouses in the Chichibu mountains offer the full dinner-and-breakfast experience (ippaku nishoku) in quiet surroundings. Meals typically feature seasonal mountain vegetables, river fish, and local sake. These properties work well for couples who want to spend two nights exploring Nagatoro, the shibazakura, and the whisky scene without rushing back to Tokyo each evening. Book 4 to 6 weeks in advance during the spring flower season.
Kawagoe Town Options
A small number of boutique inns in or adjacent to the Kurazukuri district provide direct access to evening Kawagoe and the morning Hikawa Shrine experience. These tend to be smaller and more intimate than the business hotel chains that serve Kawagoe Station. Availability is limited; early booking is essential for weekend dates.
Omiya Hotels for Kawagoe Access
Omiya Station is 15 minutes by Tobu line from Hon-Kawagoe Station and offers a much wider selection of hotels at competitive prices. For couples planning multiple Saitama day trips over three or four nights, Omiya functions as an efficient base with direct Shinkansen access for arrival and departure.
Suggested 3-Day Honeymoon Itinerary
Day 1 — Kawagoe: Morning at Kawagoe Hikawa Shrine (arrive before 09:00); late morning walk through Kurazukuri and Candy Lane; afternoon rest; evening dinner in a converted merchant-building restaurant in the old town.
Day 2 — Nagatoro and Chichibu: Morning gorge boat ride at Nagatoro; lunch riverside; afternoon Chichibu city arrival; whisky bar or distillery tour (pre-booked); overnight in Chichibu ryokan.
Day 3 — Shibazakura and Return: Early morning at Hitsujiyama Park shibazakura (seasonal, late April–mid-May); Mitsumine Shrine for a mountain atmosphere alternative outside flower season; return to Tokyo via Seibu Laview from Seibu-Chichibu.
Practical Tips
Booking lead time: Chichibu Distillery tours book out weeks in advance during spring and autumn. Reserve before finalising other arrangements. Ryokan in Chichibu fill quickly during shibazakura season (late April) and the December Night Festival period.
Transit: IC card (Suica or Pasmo) covers all rail and bus travel in Saitama. The Seibu Chichibu Pass provides cost-effective coverage for the Chichibu and Nagatoro sections. Laview reserved seating should be booked in advance on the Seibu website or at a ticket machine.
Language: Kawagoe’s Kurazukuri district is accustomed to international visitors. Chichibu city has less English-language infrastructure; a translation app is useful for restaurant menus.
Season: Spring (April–May) and autumn (October–November) offer the most visually rewarding conditions. The December Chichibu Night Festival (December 2–3) is spectacular for couples willing to brave cold weather and book accommodation many months in advance.