Shimane’s most dramatic nature lies offshore. The Oki Islands sit 60 kilometers out in the Sea of Japan — remote enough that ancient Japan used them as an island of exile for deposed emperors and unwanted nobles. Today the islands are a UNESCO Global Geopark, recognized for geological formations that tell 600 million years of tectonic history. On the mainland, the Shimane Peninsula’s rocky Sea of Japan coast and the inland Sanbe volcanic highlands round out a nature itinerary that rewards travelers willing to move beyond the main shrine circuit.
Oki Islands: UNESCO Global Geopark
The Oki Islands consist of four main inhabited islands grouped into two clusters: Dogo (the largest, essentially its own island to the east) and the Dozen group to the west (Nakanoshima, Nishinoshima, and Chiburishima). The islands were designated a UNESCO Global Geopark in 2013 for their extraordinary geological diversity — ancient subduction-zone rocks, Miocene-era volcanic formations, columnar basalt cliffs, and tectonic uplift features all visible within a compact island group.
Beyond geology, the islands retain a traditional culture that has been relatively insulated from mainland homogenization: ama female divers still work the waters, and the uniquely Oki tradition of togyu bullfighting has continued for over 800 years.
Nishinoshima: Kuniga Coast and Matengai Cliff
Nishinoshima is the most photogenic of the four islands and the one most visitors prioritize. The western coast — the Kuniga Coast — features the most dramatic cliff scenery in the San’in region: vertical basalt columns dropping straight into the sea, sea caves, and isolated rock stacks. The highlight is Matengai Cliff, a sheer 257-meter vertical drop that is one of the tallest sea cliffs in Japan accessible by trail. Standing at the rim, looking straight down to the churning sea below, is a genuinely vertiginous experience.
Kuniga Coast boat tours depart from Uragō port on Nishinoshima and circle the cliff faces from the water — the only way to see the sea caves and the full scale of the basalt columns. Tours run approximately 50 minutes and cost ¥1,500–2,000. Season: April through October, weather-dependent.
Walking the clifftop trail from Matengai south along the Kuniga Coast takes 2–3 hours. The trail is well-maintained and mostly flat along the cliff edge. Grazing cattle and horses roam the clifftop meadows — a pastoral contrast to the sheer drops immediately to the west.
Dogo: Largest Island
Dogo is the administrative center of the Oki Islands, with the largest town (Saigo), most accommodation options, and connections to mainland ferry services. The interior is heavily forested with ancient cedars, including trees over 2,000 years old at Mizuwakasujinja shrine. Okuizushima Seikan Forest has a canopy walkway through old-growth forest — unusual in an island setting.
Dogo’s coastal scenery is gentler than Nishinoshima but includes good swimming beaches at Chiburi Bay and snorkeling spots with clear visibility. The island also has cycling routes covering the coastal roads.
Oki Togyu: Island Bullfighting
Unlike bullfighting in Spain, Oki-style togyu is bull-versus-bull — two animals push against each other until one breaks away and retreats. It is a test of strength and will with no harm to the animals. The tradition is said to have started when a bull was left behind on the islands by the exiled Emperor Gotoba (1180–1239), and locals began staging bouts for entertainment.
Major tournaments are held on Nishinoshima and Dogo several times a year: the main events fall in May, July, August, and October. The atmosphere at the fighting ring is festival-like — local food, music, families, and betting on outcomes. Match schedules vary by year; check with Oki Islands tourism office when planning.
Ama Female Divers
The ama diver tradition — women who free-dive to harvest abalone, sea urchin, and other shellfish — survives on the Oki Islands as a living practice, not a tourist performance. Dogo and Nakanoshima both have active ama communities. Several hotels and guesthouses on the islands offer ama diving experiences where guests accompany divers on their boats, watch the dive, and eat the freshly harvested seafood immediately after — sea urchin and abalone grilled on a charcoal brazier on the boat is extraordinary when the urchin is this fresh. These experiences (¥5,000–8,000 per person) require advance booking and are typically seasonal (summer months).
Getting to the Oki Islands
Ferry from Sakaiminato
The primary mainland ferry port is Sakaiminato in Tottori Prefecture (40 minutes by road from Matsue). Oki Kisen operates the ferry service.
- Regular ferry to Dogo (Saigo): approximately 3 hours, ¥3,000–4,500 per person (2nd class).
- Regular ferry to Dozen (Beppu/Nishinoshima): approximately 2.5 hours to first island, 3 hours total to furthest.
- Jetfoil (high-speed): About 1.5 hours to Dogo, ¥6,000–7,000. Weather cancellations more frequent.
Ferry from Shichirui
A secondary ferry service departs from Shichirui port near Matsue (closer than Sakaiminato for travelers based in central Shimane). Service is less frequent — check current schedules.
Practical Notes
Ferries run one to three times daily depending on route and season. Book in advance during summer (July–August) and Golden Week. Between November and March, rough Sea of Japan weather causes frequent cancellations — build flexibility into your itinerary. Cars can be shipped on regular ferries, which is advisable for Dogo but less essential for the smaller Dozen islands where distances are short.
Accommodation on the islands ranges from business hotels in Saigo (Dogo) to family-run minshuku on the smaller islands. Book in advance: island accommodation is limited and can fill out weeks ahead in summer.
Shimane Peninsula: Sea of Japan Coastline
The Shimane Peninsula — the long, narrow land bridge extending northeast from Matsue — faces the open Sea of Japan along its northern coast. The coastline is rocky, dramatic, and largely undeveloped compared to Japan’s Pacific coasts. Wind-carved cliffs, pine forests on headlands, and fishing villages with minimal tourist infrastructure characterize the drive along Route 23.
Kaka Bay (Kakawann) is a small, deeply indented bay about halfway along the peninsula. The calm inner waters contrast with the exposed outer coast; the bay is known for good kayaking and small fishing boats. Local minshuku here serve fresh-caught seafood to overnight guests.
Mihono Matsubara — A coastal pine forest on the peninsula’s inner (Lake Shinji) side, planted over centuries as a windbreak. Walking paths through the pines are calm and shaded in summer. The forest extends several kilometers and provides a break from coastal exposure.
Hinomisaki Cape at the peninsula’s western end connects to the Izumo Taisha sightseeing circuit (see the sightseeing guide). The cliff walk here is the most accessible dramatic coastal scenery in Shimane — no ferry required.
Nima Sand Museum
The Nima Sand Museum (Nima Sunagami Museum) is genuinely one of the more unusual museums in Japan. The building houses five enormous hourglasses, each designed by artist Kan Yasuda. The centerpiece: a sand timer exactly 1 meter in diameter and 5 meters tall, containing exactly one year’s worth of sand. At midnight on New Year’s Eve, the hourglass is turned over by staff, and visitors can watch — the sand that falls through during the year is compressed into a sculptural form that hardens into a column. The previous year’s column is displayed alongside.
The smaller hourglasses in the collection range from 1-minute to 1-month timers. The building itself, designed by Shin Takamatsu, is architecturally striking — a series of geometric towers rising from a coastal location.
Entry: ¥630 adults.
Hours: 9:00–17:00 (closed Tuesdays except in peak season).
Access: JR Sanin Line to Nima Station, then taxi or 15-minute walk.
Sanbe Volcano and Highland Trails
Mt. Sanbe (Sanbe-san) in central Shimane is a shield volcano that last erupted about 10,000 years ago. The broad, forested caldera plateau sits at around 1,000 meters elevation and provides accessible highland walking compared to the more technical mountains of the San’in range further north.
Ōhira Summit Trail: The main trail from the Sanbe Natureland trailhead to the top of Ōhira-yama (the highest point, 1,126m) takes about 90 minutes each way. The upper sections are open grassland; views on clear days extend to the Sea of Japan coast. Moderate fitness required. Best season: May through October.
Sanbe Natureland — A nature recreation facility at the volcano’s base with campgrounds, picnic areas, archery ranges, and a small natural history museum covering the volcanic geology. Good for families. Entry to grounds ¥500.
Sanbe Onsen — A small cluster of hot spring facilities at the volcanic base. The water is mild sodium bicarbonate, and the setting — mountain forest rather than riverside resort — gives it a different atmosphere from Tamatsukuri. Good for recovery after a day of hiking.
Seasonal Guide
| Season | Highlights | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Spring (Apr–May) | Peony blooms at Yuushien, wildflowers on Oki cliffs | Best ferry weather begins |
| Summer (Jun–Aug) | Ama diving experiences, Oki beaches, Togyu tournaments | Book Oki accommodation early; ferry busy |
| Autumn (Sep–Nov) | Nodoguro peak season, foliage at Sanbe, less crowded coast | Best overall hiking conditions |
| Winter (Dec–Mar) | Matsuba crab, snow on Sanbe, rough Oki seas | Ferry cancellations common; reduced Oki access |
The sweet spot for nature-focused travel in Shimane is late May (Oki islands open season begins, peony gardens peak, sea conditions calm) or September–October (cooler temperatures, clear skies, autumn color beginning on the highland trails, and the Sea of Japan fish catch at its best).
