Every year, in the first three days of January, Japan undergoes a collective ritual unlike anything in most other countries: over 100 million people visit a shrine or temple. Not individually, over the course of a season — but in three days, as a single national event. In Tokyo alone, Meiji Shrine receives more than 3 million visitors between January 1st and 3rd, making it the most-visited shrine in Japan during hatsumode (初詣) — the first shrine visit of the New Year.
For overseas visitors in Tokyo over the New Year period, hatsumode is one of the most accessible windows into living Japanese tradition. Unlike most cultural practices that require advance planning or specific knowledge, hatsumode simply requires showing up — and knowing what to do when you get there.
🗓️ Quick Reference
| When | January 1–3 (traditionally; some visit through Jan 7) |
| Meiji Shrine address | 1-1 Yoyogikamizonocho, Shibuya-ku, Tokyo |
| Shrine opening | Open 24 hours on Jan 1–3 |
| Entry fee | Free |
| Nearest stations | Harajuku (JR Yamanote Line) / Meiji-Jingumae (Tokyo Metro) |
| Best timing | January 2–3 daytime for minimal queues |
| Avoid | Midnight Jan 1 unless you want the full crowd experience |
What Hatsumode Is (And Isn’t)
Hatsumode is the first shrine visit of the new year — a Shinto practice meant to set spiritual intentions, express gratitude, and seek blessings for the year ahead. The specific shrine visited is less important than the act of going; many families return to the same shrine they’ve visited every year for generations.
The practice is widely observed even by Japanese people who don’t consider themselves particularly religious in the Western sense. Hatsumode is better understood as a cultural touchstone than a strictly religious obligation — similar to how many people in Western countries observe Christmas traditions without identifying as devout Christians. The vast majority of hatsumode visitors are simply participating in something their family and community has always done.
For overseas visitors, this means hatsumode is open to everyone regardless of background. Participating is not culturally appropriative — it is encouraged.
Meiji Shrine: Japan’s Most-Visited Hatsumode
Meiji Shrine (明治神宮) is dedicated to the deified spirits of Emperor Meiji and his consort, Empress Shoken. Built in 1920 within a 70,000-tree forest in the heart of Harajuku, the shrine is enormous, serene, and designed to feel removed from the city even though it is surrounded by it.
During hatsumode, the 70,000-tree forest becomes something else entirely: the gravel path that normally takes 10–15 minutes to walk can take over an hour as the crowd moves in a single dense stream toward the main hall.
Timing: When to Go
Midnight, January 1st (Joya → Oshōgatsu transition)
The transition from December 31st to January 1st is the most electric hatsumode moment. Thousands of people queue from 10–11pm along the main approach to the shrine; at midnight, the gates open and the crowd begins to move. The atmosphere — complete silence before midnight, collective exhale and forward movement after the bell strikes — is unlike anything most visitors have experienced.
The practical reality: expect a 2–4 hour queue to reach the main hall from midnight. The gravel path becomes a single-file press of people. Arrive by 10:30pm to position yourself near the front gate before it opens. Dress extremely warmly (Tokyo in January can be 2–6°C at night).
Is it worth it? For visitors who haven’t experienced it before: yes, once. The compressed collective experience of Japan’s most significant annual ritual is something that cannot be replicated at any other time.
January 1st, Daytime (9am–5pm)
Still very crowded — typically 1–2 hour queue to the main hall from the main entrance. Daytime January 1st hatsumode has the advantage of daylight, food stalls operating along the approach path, and the addition of families and children who weren’t at the midnight gathering.
January 2nd–3rd (Recommended)
Queue time typically drops to 20–40 minutes. The full experience is available — all the vendor stalls, all the ritual elements, all the atmosphere — with manageable crowds. For first-time visitors who want to understand what they’re doing without being swept along in a press of bodies, January 2nd or 3rd is the best choice.
What to Do at the Shrine: Step by Step
1. The Approach (Sandō)
The gravel path leading from the outer torii gate through the cedar forest to the main hall takes 10–15 minutes to walk normally. During hatsumode, follow the crowd and don’t try to move faster than it moves.
As you approach, food stalls (yatai) line both sides of the path selling:
- Amazake — warm sweet fermented rice drink (non-alcoholic), ¥300–500. Warming and traditional.
- Oshiruko — sweet red bean soup with mochi rice cake, ¥400–600. The most traditional New Year food.
- Mikan (mandarin oranges) — fresh, small, sweet.
- Hot sake (nihonshu) — small cups from temporary stands.
2. Hand Purification (Temizu/Chōzuya)
Before approaching the main hall, the traditional practice is to purify your hands at the water pavilion (chōzuya — the stone basin with a wooden ladle). During hatsumode, the basin is often so crowded that many people bypass this step.
If you wish to participate:
- Take the ladle with your right hand, pour water over your left hand
- Take the ladle with your left hand, pour water over your right hand
- Pour water into your cupped left hand, rinse your mouth (don’t drink directly from the ladle), spit to the side
- Rinse the ladle handle and return it
In practice, many people simply pour a small amount of water over both hands and move on.
3. The Offertory and Prayer
The main hall (本殿) is approached through an outer prayer hall (拝殿). A large offertory box (saisenbako) sits at the front. The crowd moves in waves to approach it.
The standard procedure:
- Toss a coin into the offertory box. Any denomination is acceptable. (Contrary to popular belief, there is no specific lucky coin for Meiji Shrine; the ¥5 coin lucky tradition applies mainly to older Shinto shrines.)
- Bow twice, deeply (about 90 degrees)
- Clap twice, hands in front of your chest
- Hold your hands together, close your eyes, and make a silent wish or express gratitude
- Bow once more
The process takes about 30 seconds at the altar. Take your time — no one will rush you at this moment.
4. Omamori (Protective Charms) — ¥500–1,500
Omamori are small brocade pouches containing prayers written on paper or wood, sealed inside the fabric. They are designed to be carried — in your bag, in your car, in your wallet — as ongoing spiritual protection throughout the year.
Common types at Meiji Shrine:
| Type | Purpose |
|---|---|
| 健康 (kenkō) | General health |
| 縁結び (enmusubi) | Love/relationships/connections |
| 学業成就 (gakugyō jōju) | Academic success |
| 交通安全 (kōtsū anzen) | Traffic safety |
| 商売繁盛 (shōbai hanjo) | Business prosperity |
| 厄除け (yakuyoke) | Protection from bad luck |
Returning old omamori: At the end of the year (or when you next visit a shrine), you can return old omamori to be ritually burned. There is a dedicated burning area near the entrance of most shrines. Do not throw omamori in the rubbish — they are considered to contain spiritual charge.
5. Ema (Wishing Plaques) — ¥500–1,000
Ema are small wooden plaques on which you write a wish or intention for the year, then hang them on a designated wooden rack at the shrine. They remain at the shrine throughout the year and are burned ritually at the end.
How to use an ema:
- Purchase from the shrine office (usually ¥500–1,000)
- Write your wish on the back with the brush and ink provided (or a pen)
- Hang it on the rack
You can write in any language. The wish can be anything: health for a family member, success in an exam, a relationship, a career goal. Be specific or general — the form is flexible.
6. Omikuji (Fortune Slips) — ¥100–200
Omikuji are fortune slips drawn randomly. At Meiji Shrine, you draw from a box. The paper describes your fortune for the year in categories: overall luck, health, love, money, travel, and legal matters (not all shrines include all categories).
The fortunes, from best to worst:
- 大吉 (dai-kichi) — Great luck
- 吉 (kichi) — Good luck
- 中吉 (chū-kichi) — Medium luck
- 小吉 (shō-kichi) — Small luck
- 末吉 (sue-kichi) — Future luck (luck that comes later)
- 凶 (kyō) — Bad luck
- 大凶 (dai-kyō) — Great bad luck
If you draw bad luck: Tie the paper strip to the designated metal rack or pine branch near the omikuji stand. The act of tying it leaves the bad luck at the shrine rather than carrying it home. You are not required to keep an unfavourable omikuji; many people tie even good fortunes to enjoy the ritual.
What to Wear
January in Tokyo is cold: typically 3–8°C in the daytime, 0–4°C at night. For midnight hatsumode:
- Heavy winter coat, gloves, scarf, hat
- Thermal base layers
- Waterproof shoes (gravel paths plus crowds plus any light rain = muddy footwear)
Many Japanese women wear kimono or furisode (long-sleeved kimono) for hatsumode even in cold temperatures — wool tabi socks and layers underneath make it workable. You will see both traditional and entirely casual dress; both are appropriate.
Alternative Shrines for Shorter Queues
If Meiji Shrine’s 3-million-visitor crowd is unappealing, these Tokyo shrines offer genuine hatsumode atmosphere with shorter waits:
| Shrine | Area | Character |
|---|---|---|
| Senso-ji | Asakusa | Buddhist temple, still very crowded (3M+ visitors) but more colourful |
| Nezu Shrine | Yanaka | Smaller, neighbourhood atmosphere, 30 min queue max |
| Kanda Myojin | Akihabara | Popular with tech/gaming community, anime-related ema |
| Hie Shrine | Akasaka | Central location, manageable crowd, beautiful setting |
| Zenpukuji Temple | Suginami | Local neighbourhood temple, virtually no foreign tourists |
Getting There on January 1st
Do not drive. Roads around Meiji Shrine and most major shrines are completely gridlocked on January 1st and the roads around them are often restricted.
Train services: JR and Tokyo Metro run all-night services on December 31st through January 1st for precisely this reason. Standard fares apply.
Harajuku Station (JR Yamanote Line) is the closest station to Meiji Shrine’s main entrance. Expect heavy crowds on the platform.
Meiji-Jingumae Station (Tokyo Metro Chiyoda/Fukutoshin Lines) is an alternative entry point to Meiji Shrine via a slightly less crowded path.
Note: Taxi availability is severely limited on New Year’s night. Pre-book or plan entirely on foot and rail.
