Omoide Yokocho (‘Memory Lane’), tucked beside the railway tracks just north of Shinjuku Station, is a tiny network of narrow, lantern-lit alleys packed with dozens of minuscule bars and eateries. Dating back to the post-war years, it has kept a wonderfully nostalgic, retro Showa-era atmosphere — cramped counters seating just a handful of customers, smoke and the smell of grilling drifting from tiny kitchens, and a warm, convivial buzz as salarymen and travellers squeeze in elbow to elbow. The specialty is yakitori (grilled chicken skewers) and other grilled fare, along with beer, sake and shochu, though you’ll also find ramen, offal stews and more. Sometimes nicknamed ‘Piss Alley’ from rougher old days, it’s now an atmospheric, popular spot to eat, drink and soak up old Tokyo. Come hungry in the evening, squeeze into a counter, and enjoy the smoky, retro charm.
🗓️ At a Glance
| Location | Shinjuku, Tokyo |
| Hours | Evenings (many bars ~17:00–late) |
| Admission | Pay per dish/drink |
| Time needed | 1–2 hours |
| Best time | Evening |
What to Experience
- Tiny lantern-lit alleys of yakitori bars.
- A smoky, retro Showa-era atmosphere.
- Grilled skewers with beer, sake and shochu.
- A convivial, elbow-to-elbow local vibe.
Combine Your Visit
- Combine with Golden Gai for more nightlife.
- Pair with Shinjuku Gyoen by day.
- Read our Tokyo overview .
Getting There
- By train: beside Shinjuku Station (west/north side).
- On foot: just off the station in Shinjuku.
Tips
Come in the evening and hungry, squeeze onto a counter stool at a tiny yakitori bar, and order skewers with a beer or sake. Note some places have a small seating charge or are cash-only, be ready for cramped, smoky spaces, and combine it with nearby Golden Gai for a full evening of retro Shinjuku nightlife.
